North Denver Italian Restaurant Review
Only about 10 minutes South of Westminster, in what used to be the old Italian neighborhood in North Denver, a new Italian immigrant has moved in—and he’s opened a restaurant. Simone Parisi arrived in Denver ten years ago from Florence. He brought with him his family recipes and he has brought the Denver Highlands neighborhood/Berkley area of Denver a different Italian flavor. Nothing against red sauce and meatballs, but Parisi Pizzeria, Deli, and Trattoria gives us something a bit out of the ordinary. In a casual atmosphere fashioned after Italian Trattorie—cozy, family-owned establishments that serve less expensive and often better food than fancy restaurants—Parisi offers a menu rich in fresh, quality, and unusual ingredients.
On the menu, of course, are pizzas. However, just like traveling to a tourist destination but getting off the well-beaten path and exploring true local flavor—these pizzas are a new experience for your taste buds. Let Simone be your guide, though, as there are no substitutions on these wood-fired creations. My favorite is the Siciliana, not just because of my own Sicilian heritage, but because it marries some of my favorite vegetables: eggplant, zucchini, and onions with slightly sweet gorgonzola cheese. Others include the Rustica: smoked scamorza cheese with speck-a smoked, cured ham that is leaner and tastier than prosciutto. Whatever you choose, the prices are the same: $9.95 for an individual 11 inch thin-crust, $13.99 for a medium-crust traditional.
Since I could probably be considered a regular at Parisi, I’ve tried most of the basics on the menu—the homemade gnocchi with various sauces ($9.99), any sandwich that features their homemade fresh mozzarella (sandwiches range from $5.79-$7.79), and many of the meat dishes including a fantastic bistecca with green pepper sauce ($9.99). I usually stay away from the pastas that are not house made because they have never thrilled me. Given this fact, whenever I now go to Parisi, I always order whatever is on special. This is a wise move on my part, because the special is always better considering it will utilize the freshest seasonal ingredients, and has been given the attention of the chef. Some of my favorites have included a roasted pork loin with blueberry sauce, spring greens with grilled taleggio cheese and fig-balsamic dressing, and wood-fired artichokes. Keep in mind that Parisi’s menu is arranged Italian style, meaning you order courses separately so, except for the specials, entrees don’t come with sides.
My Italian meal is never complete without an espresso and a dolce; a little something sweet. There aren’t any desserts listed on the menu (which, incidentally, you order from before being seated), but I just wander over to the deli area of the restaurant which offers many delicious choices. Gelato is always a great option, but others have included little pear tarts, chocolate hazelnut tortes, and tiramisu. The pastries also change frequently since they are brought in from a local bakery. One standard is the cannoli, which is also not made in house, but with its filling that combines ricotta and mascarpone cheeses, is one of the best that I’ve tried.
I never seem to be able to leave without taking something home from the deli, where I can stock up on imported mortadella, prosciutto di Parma (one taste and you’ll understand the price difference from domestic prosciutto), and my favorite olives– buttery green Castelvetrano.
For me or anyone else who’s always dreaming of Italy, Parisi is a treat. I leave feeling as if I indeed have visited a corner of Italy right here in North Denver.
Posted by Dorina Miller
Tags: Berkeley restaurants, Denver Highlands restaurants, Denver Italian restaurant, Denver things to do